Arriving in Puerto Madryn after our days in Iguazú felt like stepping into a whole new chapter of our Argentina journey. We were still a little tired from the long trip and the lingering jet lag, but the excitement of finally reaching the Atlantic coast in Patagonia made every bit of exhaustion worth it. Puerto Madryn is world-famous for whale watching – not only from boats but also directly from the shore. This combination of raw nature, cultural history, and a growing LGBTQ+ community sparked our curiosity and eagerness to explore. Staying at La Posada de Madryn, a welcoming and tranquil hotel with a garden and winter garden dining area, immediately gave us the feeling of being at home and safe in Puerto Madryn as a gay couple. From here, we, as a gay couple, set out to experience whales at sunrise, tea, and cakes in a Welsh village, and visits to museums showcasing Patagonian history and marine research. Usually accompanied by the strong coastal winds that shape life in this corner of Argentina.
– in collaboration with Madryn.Travel –
Why Puerto Madryn is worth a trip for gay couples
For LGBTQ+ travelers seeking a destination that combines spectacular natural experiences with rich cultural heritage, Puerto Madryn is a gem. Located in the province of Chubut on Argentina’s Atlantic coast, the city owes its name to Love Jones-Parry, Baron of Madryn in Wales, one of the sponsors of the original Welsh settlement in Patagonia. The province takes its name from the Chubut River, itself derived from the Tehuelche word chupat, meaning ‘transparent river.’
The town itself may look modest at first glance, but it is the gateway to some of Patagonia’s most memorable experiences. Watching Southern Right Whales (Eubalaena australis) only a few meters away from the beach, driving across the vast landscapes of Peninsula Valdés, and meeting locals who are proud of both their Patagonian and Welsh roots make it a destination full of variety.
As a gay couple, we never felt uncomfortable here. Walking hand in hand and being met with smiles gave us a sense of reassurance. Argentina is one of the most progressive countries in Latin America when it comes to LGBTQ+ rights, and that is noticeable even in smaller cities like Puerto Madryn. Add to this the cozy hotel options, hearty food, and the unique opportunity to combine wildlife with history, and Puerto Madryn becomes an unforgettable stop on a longer journey through Argentina.
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Whale watching boat tour in Puerto Pirámides
One of the most impressive experiences we had was the boat tour in Puerto Pirámides, the only settlement inside Península Valdés.
After a delicious lunch in a small harbor restaurant named Zorro Gris with fresh seafood for Karl and fried vegetarian treats for Daan, we walked over to the whale-watching base of Peke Sosa Avistajes in Puerto Pirámides
We received an introduction to the whales and other animals of the Golfo Nuevo, safety instructions, and life jackets before boarding a medium-sized motorboat. Equipped with our cameras, phones and something to drink, our trip to the gentle giants began.
From the very first minutes, the spectacle began. The sea was alive with movement: whales breaching in the background, fountains of spray (the spouts) rising high into the sky, and the calm yet wavy surface interrupted by the enormous shapes of Southern Right Whales.
And then came the moment we will never forget – and which we captured in one of our Reels. Suddenly, a whale surfaced right next to our boat. So close we could hear its breathing, see the calm rise and fall of its massive body, and feel its presence next to us. We were overwhelmed by the size, the peace, and the beauty of this encounter. It felt like time slowed down while this gentle giant swam along for a while before diving again into the deep.
🎥 Want to see this moment? Watch our Reel on Instagram.
We’ve done whale watching before in places like Dalvik or Húsavik in Iceland, but nothing compared to this. In Puerto Madryn, these animals come so close to the coast that you don’t need to travel far offshore. The boat ride lasted at least an hour, and it was impossible to put the camera down – there were too many whales around us.
Respect for the animals was always central: the motor was switched off near sightings, and we waited for the whales to approach us, never the other way around. Returning to land with salt on our faces and hearts full of awe, we knew this was one of the trip’s highlights in Argentina.
Good to know: Southern Right Whales gather in Golfo Nuevo; the boat season typically runs from mid-June through December. Read more about whales in Argentina here.
Exploring Peninsula Valdés
The boat tour was just one part of our full-day trip through Peninsula Valdés. The peninsula has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 for its importance to marine mammals (right whales, elephant seals, sea lions, and orcas’ unique hunting), stretching over vast, dry landscapes with dramatic coastlines on the one hand, and sandy, dune-shaped hills as a backdrop.
Our guide Gloria and a driver took us across long, open roads with endless views. Along the way, we stopped to spot seabirds, guanacos, and sea elephants resting on the beaches. At the main lookout points, multiple boards tell the story of the indigenous animals that inhabit this national park. The tour lasted almost the entire day, including the boat trip and lunch.
Daylight is an important factor: in spring (European fall), days are shorter, so planning the timing of return is necessary. But despite the long day, we never felt rushed. Instead, it was the perfect pace to soak up the landscapes, breathe in the salty air, and capture memories with our cameras.
El Doradillo: beach whale-watching north of Puerto Madryn
The next morning started even earlier. Still dark outside, we drove with Gloria to Playa El Doradillo for a sunrise whale-watching picnic. Wrapped in blankets and with hot tea in our hands, we sat on the beach as the first light appeared on the horizon. What makes this place unique is that Southern Right Whales come incredibly close to the shore.
At Playa Las Canteras in the Área Natural Protegida El Doradillo, mothers with calves often cruise in the calm waters of Golfo Nuevo, sometimes astonishingly close to shore. The scene was surreal: the sound of whales breathing, the sight of massive tails rising out of the water, and even the occasional breach – all just a stone’s throw away from where we sat. There were only a handful of people around, making it feel intimate and magical.
We stayed almost until midday, unable to leave because every few minutes another whale surfaced. In our Reel, you can see our amazement and joy – it was a once-in-a-lifetime morning and the kind of travel memory we know we’ll treasure forever.
🎥 Want to see this moment? Watch our Reel on Instagram.
We stayed longer at the beach, witnessing how the weather changed dramatically at the shore: more clouds, the wind got much stronger, and the sea started to show its rough side. After such a breathtaking start to the day, we returned to town for lunch and a quieter, but definitely not less interesting afternoon.
Museo del Desembarco in Puerto Madryn
As you can imagine, Puerto Madryn is not only about whales. The Argentine city also offers fascinating museums and cultural spaces. We first visited the Museo del Desembarco, located in Punta Cuevas, where the Welsh settlers landed on July 28, 1865. The museum explains how more than 150 people arrived on the sailing ship Mimosa and began building a life here in Patagonia—more about this part of history can be found on the museum website. Did you know that the colony might not have survived its early years without the Tehuelche people, the semi-nomadic Indigenous inhabitants of the region? They shared vital knowledge on food, hunting, and irrigation in the Río Chubut valley, helping the settlers adapt to Patagonia’s arid climate.
This cooperation enabled the Welsh to cultivate crops, establish villages, such as Gaiman (which we also visited during this trip; see more below), and lay the foundations of Y Wladfa, the Welsh colony in Argentina. Standing among the exhibits and the rocky cliffs where this history unfolded, we understood why this part of history is still so crucial for the region.
Ecocentro Puerto Madryn: Marine Life Science & Education Center
Our second stop was the Ecocentro Puerto Madryn (formerly Ecocentro Pampa Azul), a modern center for marine science and education perched on the cliffs overlooking the sea. The building itself is striking, with panoramic windows and interactive exhibitions (mainly in Spanish). Inside, we learned about marine ecosystems and conservation efforts and saw local school groups deeply engaged with the displays.
Outside, the views of the coastline and a giant whale skeleton made the visit even more memorable. The wind that day was strong – as it often is in Puerto Madryn – reminding us how the weather shapes daily life in Patagonia. Patagonia’s coastal climate is notoriously windy throughout the year. Average breezes typically range around 9–13 mph (15–20 km/h), but in the summer months, winds can accelerate dramatically, sometimes reaching up to 74 mph (ca. 119 km/h). It’s part of what gives Puerto Madryn and the Patagonian coast their raw, elemental character.
On the way between the museums, we also stopped at a viewpoint featuring a monument that marked paths for Argentina, Patagonia, and Puerto Madryn. It was the perfect spot for a windswept photo of us together, laughing into the fierce coastal breeze.
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Gaiman: Welsh history in Patagonia
No trip to Puerto Madryn is complete without a visit to Gaiman, a small town about 80 km away in the Lower Valley of the Chubut River. The one-hour drive there took us through vast, open steppe. The road itself felt like an adventure, with occasional fun roadside attractions, such as a giant dinosaur statue – the kind of quirky photo stop that makes a long drive more enjoyable. Until suddenly trees appeared, nourished by a big river.
This fertile valley was crucial for the Welsh settlers, who founded Gaiman in 1874 after landing in Puerto Madryn. By the way, the Tehuelche name, Gaiman, is often translated as ‘piedra de afilar’ – a sharpening stone or whetstone. Here, they could irrigate the land, grow crops, and build a community that preserved their language and culture far from home. The role of the Tehuelche was again vital: without their help, the settlers would not have survived in the harsh Patagonian environment.
Museo Histórico Regional de Gaiman
We visited the Museo Histórico Regional de Gaiman, housed in one of the reconstructed first buildings of the settlement. Walking through the small rooms, we learned how the settlers endured, built irrigation canals, and maintained their traditions.
The story is both inspiring and complex – a reminder of how colonization reshaped Patagonia while also creating enduring cultural connections that persist to this day—more about the museum on TripAdvisor.
Ty Gwyn Teahouse – Welsh culture in Gaiman, Patagonia
The sweetest part of our visit came at the Ty Gwyn Teahouse. Sitting among colorfully decorated teapots, we savored traditional Welsh cakes and Torta Negra Galesa, the Patagonian twist on Welsh fruitcake bara brith.
The women running the teahouse in Gaiman welcomed us warmly, some even speaking Patagonian Welsh – a dialect that has been preserved through generations. In our Reel, you can hear one of them greeting us in Welsh, a touching moment that connected us directly to this living culture.
After tea and trying their amazing cake variations, we strolled through the park along the river, admired local artworks, and made a quick stop at a souvenir shop before heading back to Puerto Madryn. It was a day filled with learning, flavors, and a sense of Europe meeting Patagonia.
🎥 Want to see this moment? Watch our Reel on Instagram.
LGBTQ+ life and community in Puerto Madryn
Although we didn’t join a formal LGBTQ+ event during our stay, queerness is visible in Puerto Madryn in various ways. The city promotes ‘Puerto Madryn Diversa’ initiatives—including a Pride Month calendar and even a ‘Matrimonio Express’ option that streamlines wedding paperwork. Additionally, Puerto Madryn hosted the National Beach Games for Diversity in 2021, combining sports and culture to celebrate inclusion on the Atlantic coast. Furthermore, the city in Patagonia also made headlines with its Casamiento Express, a program that allows LGBTQ+ couples to legally marry in just a few days – a powerful symbol of Argentina’s leadership in LGBTQ+ rights.
Read more about Puerto Madryn’s LGBTQ+ support here.
Walking along the Rambla, the seaside promenade, felt like a natural queer meeting point—a sentiment echoed in gay travel guides, which describe it as a relaxed, welcoming place where local LGBTQ+ travelers stroll or gather. Argentina’s progressive LGBTQ+ laws, including nationwide marriage equality since 2010 and strong gender identity rights since 2012. These equality rights also translate into an atmosphere of acceptance. For us, Puerto Madryn was not just about nature and culture but also about feeling part of a community, even in a smaller coastal city.
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Staying at La Posada de Madryn
Our base for all these adventures was La Posada de Madryn, a charming hotel set in a quiet part of town. Our king bedroom overlooked the garden, where spring flowers were just beginning to bloom. The pool was still closed for the season, but we didn’t miss it – instead, we enjoyed breakfasts and dinners in the cozy winter garden, where the glass walls looked out onto the greenery. Every meal was delicious, from fresh bread at breakfast to hearty dinners after long, adventurous days in Patagonian nature.
What mattered most was how welcome we felt as a gay couple. Checking in was easy; there were no awkward questions, just warm smiles. The atmosphere was intimate and relaxing, a perfect retreat after full days of exploring. We wholeheartedly recommend La Posada de Madryn to LGBTQ+ travelers seeking a safe and comfortable place to stay.
Practical tips for LGBTQ+ travelers in Puerto Madryn
When we look back at our time in Puerto Madryn, a few practical tips stand out. These aren’t polished travel-guide points, just our honest notes the way we’d share them with friends:
- Feeling safe: We walked hand in hand everywhere – in town, on the Rambla, and in the parks. Nobody ever gave us a strange look. During our whale-watching trips, giving an excited kiss and hug when a whale appeared felt natural and was met with smiles.
- The best season for whale watching is from June to December, with the peak months being September and October. We visited in early spring (European autumn) and were amazed by the number of whales we saw, both from the boat and from shore.
- Long tours: Trips to Peninsula Valdés are full-day adventures. Bring water, some snacks, and prepare for long drives with beautiful views and occasional quirky roadside stops.
- The wind: Puerto Madryn is windy – really windy. Pack layers, a windbreaker, and don’t underestimate how chilly it can get even on sunny days.
- Where to stay: La Posada de Madryn was perfect for us, offering a cozy and LGBTQ+ welcoming atmosphere. There are other hotels available, but be sure to choose one that meets your needs for comfort and inclusivity.
- Plan ahead: The boat tours, the Full Moon Walk in Iguazú, and even tea in Gaiman can get busy. Booking in advance saved us from disappointment.
Not a complete manual, but these are the things that made our trip smoother and more enjoyable.
Plan your trip to Puerto Madryn, Argentina, with our gay couple journal
Puerto Madryn gave us days full of magic: whales so close we could hear them breathe, tea with Welsh cakes in a Patagonian town, windswept museum visits, and cozy nights in our hotel.
It was the perfect continuation of our Argentina story after Iguazú Falls, with different landscapes, new cultures, and the same feeling of freedom and safety that comes with traveling as a gay couple.
From here, our journey continued to El Calafate, where glaciers awaited us, but Puerto Madryn will always stand out as the place where Patagonia first welcomed us with open arms.
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If you’re planning a trip to Argentina, add Puerto Madryn to your itinerary. Because there are only a few places in the world where you can sip tea with Welsh settlers’ descendants in the afternoon and watch whales breach at sunrise the very next day.
Would you like to learn more about our gay travels around the world? Stay tuned on Facebook, Threads, TikTok, YouTube, and Instagram. See you again soon!
Karl & Daan.