When we looked at the map before our trip, El Calafate felt like a distant dream. Located in Santa Cruz province, on the shores of Lago Argentino and at the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, it is often referred to as Tierra de Glaciares — the land of glaciers. For LGBTQ+ travelers, it combines world-class nature with the safe and welcoming atmosphere Argentina has become known for. With nationwide marriage equality since 2010 and strong anti-discrimination protections, even remote Patagonian towns like El Calafate feel inclusive and comfortable to explore as gay couple travel bloggers like us.
Why traveling to El Calafate is worth it for a gay couple
Here, we came face-to-face with ancient ice, sailed among icebergs, shared rainbow-flag moments against spectacular backdrops, and ended the days in warm pools and cozy restaurants. After the roaring waterfalls of Iguazú and the whales of Puerto Madryn, El Calafate was the chapter where Patagonia slowed us down and invited us to breathe, to hold hands, and to simply take it all in.
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First impressions of El Calafate
By the time we landed in El Calafate, it was already dark. Our flight from Puerto Madryn had been delayed, and arriving this far south in Patagonia also meant the days felt shorter. Cold rain greeted us outside the airport, reminding us just how different this part of Argentina would be compared to the ones we had just been in. A taxi brought us through the quiet streets to our hotel, Xelena Hotel & Suites. Our room was spacious and modern, with big windows overlooking Lago Argentino. At least, that’s what we discovered the next morning — when we arrived late at night, the lake was hidden in the dark.
We had planned for a proper dinner that evening, but with the late hour and an early wake-up call ahead of us, we decided to keep it simple. Instead, we grabbed two warm meals to go, brought them up to our room, and ended the night the cozy way: a hot shower, a quick bath, and dinner on our bed while listening to the rain outside. It wasn’t the grand first evening we had in mind, but it was exactly what we needed before the adventures waiting for us the next day.
Trip planning: Click here for offers on TripAdvisor
Day one: on the way to Perito Moreno
The next morning began early, with one of the highlights of Patagonia ahead: a full-day trip to Perito Moreno Glacier. Our start was slightly delayed because the bus organized by the tour operator Hielo & Aventura had to be replaced, but honestly, the extra hour gave us more time for breakfast and to gather our energy. Once on the road, excitement quickly took over.
The ride from El Calafate to the glacier takes about 90 minutes, crossing wide-open Patagonian steppe. It instantly reminded us of the glacial plains of Iceland: endless plains of hardy bushes, no tall trees, and a horizon stretching forever. But on this clear morning, the horizon wasn’t empty at all: in the distance, we could already see the ice- and snow-covered peaks of the Andes. Sitting at the front of the bus, that view of mountains shimmering above the steppe made our anticipation even stronger.
Reading tip: Hiking on a glacier in Iceland
At a crossroads, the road split. To the right would be Punta Bandera — tomorrow’s starting point for our boat excursion. Today our bus turned left. Before reaching the main visitor area, the driver suddenly pulled over. We climbed a short path up the hillside and were rewarded with our very first panoramic view of Perito Moreno Glacier. From afar, the sheer size of the massive tongue of ice pushing into the lake was breathtaking. The ice field stretched for kilometers, shining in white and blue.
First views of Perito Moreno Glacier
A little further on, we arrived at the famous network of wooden boardwalks overlooking the glacier’s south face. For nearly two hours, we wandered along the wooden paths, camera and tripod ready. Every angle offered another perspective: crevasses, seracs, and walls of ice rising 70 meters above the water.
We couldn’t resist bringing out our big Progress Pride flag, one of our favorite travel rituals. We waved our rainbow Pride flag proudly, capturing a memory we’ll never forget — love and visibility against one of nature’s greatest wonders.
Every so often, thunderous crashes shattered the stillness. Giant chunks of ice calved off the glacier, plunging into the lake below. Watching these icefalls was surreal: the movement unfolded in slow motion, and only seconds later the sound — a deep, booming roar — reached us. Nature reminding us of its power.
Back at the bus, we waited for a few stragglers and grabbed a quick snack. Then, as if the glacier spectacle wasn’t enough, another surprise crossed our path: a large bird, curious and bold, wandered right across the road. With its hooked beak and striking plumage, it looked almost prehistoric.
We later learned it was a Southern Crested Caracara, one of Patagonia’s iconic raptors, serving us another unforgettable photo moment.
Walking along and touching the Perito Moreno Glacier
The glacier adventure in Southern Patagonia wasn’t over yet. After our first breathtaking views from the boardwalks, the bus took us back a short stretch of road, down to a small harbor at Bajo de las Sombras. We boarded a ferry boat across Lago Rico, the milky-grey water colored by fine minerals ground by the glacier.
Getting closer, the wall of ice loomed larger and larger until it felt like we were sailing into another world. On the far shore, our group disembarked and followed guides along the glacier’s flank.
Markers along the rocks indicated how far the ice once extended, a reminder of its resilience in recent years, as it remained almost unchanged amid global warming. These times have also passed, as scientists are presently reporting significant retreat.
Finally, we reached the ice itself. Standing at its edge, touching the cold surface, and posing with our rainbow flag felt surreal. Under the bright blue sky, we could see tiny dots — trekkers with crampons — moving across the ice field. Their size compared to the glacier revealed just how immense Perito Moreno truly is.
Reading tip: Winter hike through Maligne Canyon in Jasper, Canada
Return trip with a special toast
The return trail led us through the Andean-Patagonian woods, which were swampy and lush in brown and green, in stark contrast to the surrounding ice. Surrounded by resilient shrubs and twisted trees, we were reminded how fragile and important this ecosystem is — and how closely it depends on the glacier’s rhythms.
Back at the boat, our small, international group shared a special toast. We were handed glasses of Calafate liqueur, a sweet, berry-based spirit made from the deep-purple calafate berry that grows only in Patagonia.
See our Instagram Reel of the Safari Azul glacier adventure
Served over a chunk of glacier ice itself, the drink was both delicious and symbolic — a way of carrying the glacier with us as we sailed back across Lago Rico, hearts full of awe, knowing this was a memory we’d never forget.
Fun fact: Local legend says that if you taste it, you’re destined to return. Served over glacier ice itself, it felt like the perfect way to carry a piece of this place back with us.
Trip planning: Offers for glacier hikes on TripAdvisor
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Sunset, pool time, and Patagonian dinner
Back at Xelena Hotel, the sun dipped low over Lago Argentino. The golden hour lit up the lake and the snowy peaks beyond as we slipped into our robes and walked down to the hotel’s wellness and spa area, which included a small indoor and outdoor pool. We had the relaxing place almost entirely to ourselves, splashing in the warm water before lying back in the sun to soak in the quiet moment. With snowy peaks in the distance and flamingos feeding along the shore below, it felt like a scene too perfect to be real — and yet here we were, living it together.
See our Instagram Reel of sunset & flamingos at Xelena Hotel
That evening, we were invited for dinner at Mako Fuegos y Vinos Restaurante, one of El Calafate’s culinary gems. The multi-course menu unfolded slowly, each dish more creative and delicious than the last — with vegetarian options for Daan, hearty fish and meat plates for Karl, and Argentine wines to pair.
The food was worth every minute, though by the end, when we reached dessert time, we were fighting off our tiredness after such an adventurous day. Still, between the pool, the golden sunset, and this incredible dinner, it was the kind of night that made us fall asleep grateful and excited for what Patagonia had in store next.
Trip planning: Reviews and details about Mako Fuegos y Vinos on TripAdvisor
Cruising Lago Argentino: Upsala & Spegazzini Glaciers
The next morning started a little slower, though not much: another glacier adventure was waiting for us. Instead of a bus, a private driver picked us up from our hotel and brought us to Punta Bandera port, about 47 km from El Calafate. This time, we boarded a larger catamaran-style vessel operated by Solo Patagonia for the Todo Glaciares navigation.
Sailing out onto Lago Argentino, Argentina’s largest freshwater lake, felt surreal. The water seemed to stretch endlessly, dotted with massive icebergs glowing in shades of blue and white. Our first destination was the Upsala Glacier, once one of the largest in the park.
Today, huge icebergs break off and float through the Upsala Channel, which means boats can no longer approach the glacier’s face directly. Instead, we admired the spectacle of drifting ice giants, each one shaped by years of slow movement and sudden collapse.
The true highlight came next: Spegazzini Glacier. The boat maneuvered close to its towering ice wall, over 135 meters high, the tallest in Los Glaciares National Park. Wedged dramatically between steep mountain cliffs, the glacier seemed to pour straight out of the peaks.
We couldn’t resist unfurling our rainbow Pride flag again, standing together at the bow of the catamaran as the photographer captured us against this icy giant. The contrast between the rainbow colors of the flag and the deep blues of the ice is one of those travel images we are proud and happy to have captured.
See our Instagram Reel about our boat tour with Solo Patagonia
Almost within reach: close to Spegazzini Glacier
Disembarking at Base Spegazzini, we followed trails lined with information boards before settling at the modern Spegazzini Shelter. With steaming bowls of Argentine soup and fresh bread, we sat at the window in awe of the view. Later, we wandered outside to sit on rocks by the water, surrounded by mountains and ice, simply letting the silence sink in.
At Base Spegazzini, we disembarked and walked up to the Spegazzini Shelter, a modern lodge with huge panoramic windows facing the glacier. Sitting by the glass with steaming bowls of Argentine soup and fresh bread, we almost forgot to eat, too captivated by the view outside with big smiles on our faces.
Afterward, we wandered along the interpretive trails, lined with information boards that provided details about the region’s geology, wildlife, and glaciology. For a while, we sat on the rocky shore, soaking in the silence and the sheer scale of the mountains and ice around us.
Reading tip: Exploring a Ice Cave Lava Tube in Iceland
By afternoon, it was time to return. Wrapped in thick jackets, we sat inside watching the lake slide past the windows. Another day of glaciers, another day of wonder. Back at Punta Bandera, our driver was waiting to take us to the hotel. It had been a long day, but one of the most unforgettable of our trip: a day of ice, water, and rainbow-colored memories that were etched deep into Patagonia.
Trip planning: Solo Patagonia offers on TripAdvisor
Dinner and the last night in El Calafate
Our third evening in El Calafate ended at Humus Restó Bar, a restaurant tucked inside a hotel complex with a pool and garden area. While the menu included vegetarian-friendly dishes for Daan, it was primarily built around Argentine meat specialties. The atmosphere was relaxed, and after two days filled with glaciers and boat rides, it was exactly the kind of slow dinner we needed.
Trip planning: Reviews and details of Humus Restó Bar on TripAdvisor
Instead of taking a car back, we walked. The path led us through part of town and then along the lake promenade. Even though it was already dark, we enjoyed stretching our legs and breathing the cool Patagonian spring night air before slipping into our hotel from the lakeside entrance. The next morning, after one last breakfast at Xelena Hotel & Suites, it was time to leave. A private transfer brought us smoothly to the small airport, where everything ran on time. Our flight with Aerolíneas Argentinas carried us back north to Buenos Aires.
El Calafate had been the perfect third chapter of our Argentina journey — after Iguazú’s waterfalls and Puerto Madryn’s whales, here we stood on ancient ice and sailed among glaciers. And now, the next chapter awaited us in Buenos Aires, where we would spend several days exploring the city and even join the G-Network 360 LGBTQ+ Travel Conference as panel speakers.
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Personal notes from our gay travels to Patagonia
Traveling as a gay couple, we always notice how people react to us. In El Calafate, just like in Iguazú and Puerto Madryn, we felt completely safe. We walked hand in hand everywhere, kissed when whales or glaciers took our breath away, and never once had a negative reaction. That freedom made all the difference. Occasionally, our couple photography sessions led to some funny moments. As we set up our tripod and Pride flag, other travelers would wander into our shots without realizing it — leaving us with some hilarious outtakes. It’s all part of the fun, and it makes our photo memories even more personal.
But most of all, El Calafate gave us stillness. Unlike the roar of Iguazú or the spectacle of whales, here we often just sat in silence, watching ice and mountains, holding hands. The crisp spring air carried a calm, melancholic beauty, reminding us to pause and take it in. Looking at the map afterwards, we had to pinch ourselves. We weren’t at the very end of the continent — not yet Ushuaia or Cape Horn — but we were already deep in Patagonia, further south than we had ever been. For two nature lovers, it was nothing short of a dream come true.
Food & dining in El Calafate
Patagonian cuisine is as much a part of the adventure as glaciers and lakes. In El Calafate, the food reflects both its remote location and rich traditions of southern Argentina. The star of the region is Patagonian lamb, slow-roasted over an open fire until the meat is tender and infused with a smoky flavor. Trout from local rivers and fresh-caught lake fish also feature prominently on menus, often served with seasonal vegetables. For those with a sweet tooth, El Calafate has its specialty: desserts made from the dark-purple calafate berry, which is used in jams, sauces, and the famous liqueur said to guarantee a return to Patagonia.
- Mako Fuegos y Vinos Restaurante: multi-course Patagonian menu, lamb and fish specialties, vegetarian-friendly.
- Humus Restó Bar: more casual, but still rooted in Argentine flavors.
- Xelena Hotel & Suites restaurant: dining with lake views, simple but hearty.
Whether you’re enjoying a fine dining experience or a simple, hearty meal, the food here feels connected to the land and its stories. For us, sharing long dinners after days in the cold was just as memorable as standing before the glaciers themselves. Oh, and don’t miss tasting Calafate liqueur. Legend says if you try it, you will one day return to Patagonia.
Practical tips for LGBTQ+ travelers in El Calafate
Patagonia may feel remote and wild, but El Calafate turned out to be surprisingly easy and welcoming to navigate as a gay couple. From hotels that greeted us warmly to tours where holding hands and waving our rainbow flag felt natural, we never had to second-guess our visibility. Still, traveling in southern Argentina requires some preparation – the distances are long, the weather is unpredictable, and the tours often sell out well in advance. Below you’ll find our personal notes, the kind of things we’d tell close friends planning their trip. Not polished guidebook wisdom, but the details that made our journey smoother, safer, and more enjoyable.
Here are our honest notes, just the way we’d share them with friends:
- Feeling safe: We walked hand in hand everywhere and never felt uncomfortable. Rainbow flag photos? No problem.
- Best time to go: September–April is the prime season. Spring (October–November) means fewer crowds, but it’s still cold in the mountains.
- Tours to book: Perito Moreno minitrekking and Todo Glaciares with Solo Patagonia. Reserve ahead — they sell out quickly.
- What to pack: Layers, a windbreaker, sturdy shoes, gloves, sunscreen, and a camera you’ll never put down.
- Weather: Patagonia is windy. Expect 9–13 mph (15–20 km/h) breezes, with gusts that can reach 74 mph (120 km/h). Pack accordingly.
- Where to stay: LGBTQ+ friendly hotels, such as Xelena or Travel Proud certified options, make for a comfortable base.
Gay travels to El Calafate and beyond in Argentina
El Calafate was the third chapter of our Argentina journey — after the waterfalls of Iguazú and the whales of Puerto Madryn, it was here that we touched ancient ice and sailed among glaciers. It gave us moments of awe and moments of calm, laughter over outtakes, and silence over landscapes too big for words. Most of all, it gave us the freedom to live it all openly, hand in hand.
From here, our journey continued back to Buenos Aires, where we would join the G-Network 360 LGBTQ+ Travel Conference as speakers and dive into the city’s queer culture. But El Calafate will always be the place where Patagonia first opened its arms to us with glaciers, flamingos, and rainbow-colored memories.
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Karl & Daan.