As a gay couple visiting Iguazú Falls in Argentina, we had been dreaming of this trip for years. After the long journey from Amsterdam to Buenos Aires with our partner airline KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, and a short connection north, we finally landed in Puerto Iguazú, the subtropical border region of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. The humid air welcomed us the moment we stepped out of the airport. We were tired from the trip, but at the same time, we were full of excitement, knowing what was waiting for us in the coming days. From our first evening overlooking the triple frontier to walking the boardwalks above the waterfalls, getting soaked on a boat ride, and spotting a rare rainbow in the moonlight, Iguazú gave us moments that felt like pure magic. It was not only the landscapes that stayed with us, but also the freedom of being able to explore them together as a gay Couple of Men, hand in hand, always feeling welcome and safe.
Why the Iguazú Falls in Argentina is a must for a gay couple
The change from late summer in Europe to early spring in Argentina by landing in Buenos Aires could not have been more striking. Instead of city sounds, we woke up surrounded by jungle birds and the soft hum of insects. The smell of damp earth and blooming trees filled the air. We arrived in Iguazú, which means ‘great water’ in the Guaraní language.
After a long nap in our hotel room, the sun broke through the curtains and reminded us that our adventure in Iguazu, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, had just begun. Dinner that evening was set on the riverbanks, overlooking the Hito Tres Fronteras, the point where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. Watching the sunset from this symbolic place at the Triple Frontier, we felt how special this journey was already becoming.
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Exploring the Argentine side of Iguazú Falls
Our first full day in Iguazú started early, with the sound of birds echoing through the trees. Entering the national park already felt exciting, but nothing could prepare us for the moment the boardwalk opened up to the first views of the waterfalls. The path led us across calm stretches of the Iguazu River, surrounded by thick vegetation, before the water suddenly crashed into the depths below.
Across almost three kilometers, the Iguazú River plunges nearly 80 meters, creating one of the largest waterfall systems in the world. Every turn revealed new cascades, big and small, and soon we were standing in front of the thundering Garganta del Diablo—the Devil’s Throat.
The mist rose high above us and covered our faces, while the roar of the water was so mighty that all conversations seemed to fade into silence. Moments full of love and happiness, standing on top of what is now considered one of the 7 World Natural Wonders of the World. It also made us even more excited about what we were about to do next!
A jungle tour with optional animal sightings
In the afternoon, a whole different kind of adventure was waiting for us: The Gran Aventura, the great adventure. The tour started with a ride in an open 4×4 truck through the subtropical rainforest of Iguazú National Park.
The driver stopped several times to point out plants and wildlife of the Iguazu National Park, and at one point, we were lucky enough to spot a group of howler monkeys high up in the trees. Their calls echoed through the forest, a deep and almost otherworldly sound that gave us goosebumps. Surrounded by that much life and greenery, we felt like we had stepped into another world.
And actually, that is true, as the Iguazu National Park is part of one of the world’s most threatened forest ecosystems. Did you know that Iguazú is home to more than 400 bird species and 80 mammals, from jaguars to giant anteaters? Spotting the group of howler monkeys gave us only a glimpse of this diversity.
The Great Adventure at Iguazú Falls
After a short walk down to the riverbank, we received life jackets and waterproof bags for our belongings before boarding a speedboat on the Iguazú River. The ride began calmly, gliding past jungle cliffs, but the energy of the river quickly changed as we approached the waterfalls.
Our boat climbed over rapids, and then the captain steered us straight towards the crashing cascades of the Circuito Inferior. Within seconds, we were completely drenched. It felt like driving into a wall of water, a rainstorm multiplied by ten, only louder, wetter, and far more exhilarating.
Our Instagram Reel of our wet waterfall adventure:
It was a wonderful experience, mixing the laughter on the boat with the roar of the river. Cameras and phones stayed dry in the bags, but nothing else did. We were happy we came prepared with just our swimming shorts and light shirts and even happier to have a set of dry clothes waiting for us back at the dock.
Back at the hotel, the sunset welcomed us with warm colors above the jungle canopy. From the rooftop terrace of our Travel Proud certified O2 Hotel Iguazú, we raised our glasses of sparkling wine and let the day sink in. It felt both surreal and grounding to share that view, hand in hand, knowing how far we had come to be there.
Iguazú Falls and Devil’s Throat by moonlight
But Iguazú still had a surprise for us. After dinner, we returned to the park for the Full Moon Walking Tour — a special experience that takes place only a few nights each month when the moon is full. To reach the falls at night, we boarded the little park train that carried us slowly through the jungle. The stars above us and the sounds of the surrounding rainforest made the ride feel almost unreal.
Once on the trail over the waters, our eyes gradually adjusted to the silver light of the moon. The waterfalls looked entirely different compared to earlier that day: quieter, softer, and almost mystical. Standing at the edge of the Devil’s Throat, with the white mist glowing in the moonlight, was already unforgettable.
Then came the moment that truly took our breath away: a rainbow lit not by the sun, but by the moon. A moonbow (also known as a lunar or moon rainbow). Watching that rare, faint arc stretch across the darkness felt like nature was showing us something just for that night.
Fun fact: The mist doesn’t just create moonbows; it also nurtures a unique ecosystem of plants and animals that only exist in this humid microclimate.
The tour itself is well organized and includes guides who make sure everyone is safe. Because it only runs on a few nights each month, it’s best to book well in advance. Comfortable shoes are a must — the walkways can get slippery from the mist — and although the evenings are mild, bringing a light jacket and insect repellent made us much more comfortable. Taking photos is tricky in the low light, but even if you don’t manage to capture it, the memory of Iguazú Falls under the moonlight will stay with you forever.
A day trip to the Brazilian side of Iguazú Falls
The next morning, we crossed the border into Brazil to see the falls from another angle. After a delicious breakfast in our hotel, we started our drive from Puerto Iguazú in Argentina to the main entrance of Iguaçu National Park in Brazil.
Our guide parked the car while we got our tickets for the park and buses. After making a final toilet stop, we boarded one of the shuttle buses that depart regularly towards the Hotel das Cataratas, Iguassu Falls. From there, we started our day in Brazil, walking the Path of the Falls Trail (Trilha das Cataratas Brasil).
Travel tip: When you arrive at the trail, take your time. Don’t waste the moment by trying to capture thousands of photos or videos. Instead, just stand still, breathe, and let the magic and unspeakable beauty of this place sink in.
The trail led us along viewpoints that opened up to breathtaking panoramas of the entire waterfall system. One of the highlights was reaching Salto Santa Maria, where we stopped to take photos with our Pride flag, snapped selfies, and simply soaked in the stunning view of the valley of waterfalls from below. Standing only a few meters above the roaring water was a thrilling, intoxicating feeling, and, as Karl put it, being unexpectedly quiet, “berauschend schön”.
From there, the path continued upwards. Instead of taking the Devil’s Throat lifts, we decided to walk the stairs, which allowed us more time to enjoy the views and the surrounding atmosphere. With every step, the panorama widened, showing us just how immense Iguazú really is when seen from the Brazilian side.
Comparison of the Argentine and Brazilian sides
Both the Argentine and Brazilian sides offered us perspectives we will never forget. On the Argentine side, we loved being able to get close, walk along boardwalks, and feel the raw power of the Devil’s Throat right beneath our feet.
The Brazilian side, on the other hand, opened up vast panoramas that allowed us to grasp the full scale of the three-kilometer stretch of waterfalls. It felt more crowded, but standing in front of the cascades with our Pride flag reminded us how safe and visible we could be here.
Neither side is better than the other, as they complement each other perfectly. Still, in our hearts, we carry a special love for the Argentine side, where our Iguazú adventure began and where we felt closest to the falls themselves.
Practical tips for LGBTQ+ travelers in Iguazú
When we look back at our time in Iguazú, there are a few things that made our trip so much easier, safer, and simply more enjoyable as a gay couple. Do not expect a perfect list. Here are just a few of our thoughts, the way we would share them with friends over a glass of wine:
- Feeling safe: We walked hand in hand everywhere, both in Puerto Iguazú and inside the national park. Nobody ever made us feel uncomfortable. When we waved our Progress Pride flag on the Brazilian side, people smiled at us. No one made a negative comment or made us feel uneasy. That was a very positive experience.
- When to go: Honestly, there’s no bad time. In summer (December–March), the water can be stronger and wilder. In winter (May–September), it’s usually drier, and you can see the cascades more clearly. We went in the spring (end of August, beginning of September), and it was just right.
- Crossing the border: Bring your passport; that’s really all. It can take a bit longer occasionally. For us, it was easy, but don’t plan something too tightly after. Relax and go with the South American flow.
- Where to sleep: Staying at the Travel Proud property O2 Hotel Iguazú, gave us peace of mind. It wasn’t just about a comfortable bed but about feeling welcome for who we are. In Iguazu, you can find multiple other accommodations. We prefer to stay in Travel Proud properties, as listed on Booking.com.
- What to pack: Light clothes that dry fast, insect spray (you will need it), and don’t forget a second set of clothes for the Gran Aventura boat ride. Trust us, you will be soaked. Due to the humidity and high temperatures, make sure to bring enough water. But rest assured, the restaurants in the national parks on both sides provide snacks and drinks.
- Book ahead: The Full Moon Walking Tour and the Gran Aventura fill up quickly. We booked both in advance and were so happy we did.
Not a complete guide, just our personal tips from two guys who still can’t believe we got to experience Iguazú Falls together.
Food and dining in Iguazú
Food was also a special part of our stay. On our very first evening, we had dinner at EL HITO Restaurante Mirador, a place overlooking the Triple Frontier where the atmosphere was as memorable as the view. On the second night, during our Full Moon Walk, dinner was included at the Restaurante La Selva inside Iguazú National Park — a cozy stop that made the whole experience feel even more complete.
One night in town, we found ourselves at Te Amaré Maitena, right in the heart of Puerto Iguazú. It sits on one of the cutest corners of town—fun cocktails, cozy vibe, and a menu of comforting, well-made Argentine favorites. One of our favorite meals was lunch at Fortín Cataratas, right inside the park on the Argentine side, where we refueled with hearty local dishes surrounded by lively and excited local tourists mixed with the sounds of the jungle. These stops may not have been fine dining, but they added to the authenticity of our Iguazú days and gave us a taste of the local flavors between all the adventures.
Iguazú Falls and beyond in Argentina
Our days in Iguazú were unforgettable — from the roar of the Devil’s Throat to the silver glow of the waterfalls under the full moon. It was the perfect start to our Argentina adventure.
What made it so special was the beauty of the landscapes combined with the feeling of being able to explore these natural wonders freely as a gay couple, without hesitation. Iguazú will always stay with us as a place of love, nature, and rainbow-colored memories.
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But this was just the beginning. After Iguazú, our trip continued with new adventures in Puerto Madryn, where we encountered whales and sea lions on the Atlantic coast; in Buenos Aires, where we explored queer history and tango nights; and in El Calafate, where we set foot on the mighty Perito Moreno Glacier. Each destination added a new chapter to our story through Argentina, but it all began here, standing hand in hand at the edge of the waterfalls of this world wonder.
If Iguazú Falls is on your list, make it happen. And if it isn’t yet, we hope our story inspires you to add it. Because some places in the world, you just have to see together.
Do you want to know more about our gay travels around the world? Stay tuned on Facebook, Threads, TikTok, YouTube, and Instagram. See you again soon!
Karl & Daan.